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Rock Climbing - The AMGA Single Pitch Manual
By Bob Gaines and Jason D. Martin
Falcon Guides | May 2014 | ISBN-10: 0762790040 | True PDF | 272 Pages | 41.2 mb
Rock Climbing: The AMGA Single Pitch Manual is intended to serve as a textbook for past and furture participants of the AMGA SPI program. The book builds upon Bob Gaines' book, Toproping, to more specifically address the needs of the professional cilmbing instructor and advanced recreational climbers. It presents the most current, internationally recognized standards for technical climbing systems used in single pitch rock terrain. Included are chapters on effective teaching in the outdoor environment, risk management, professionalism, environmental awareness, and rescue
About the Authors
Bob Gaines has been a professional rock climbing guide since 1983 and is the owner of Vertical Adventures Rock Climbing School, voted the top rock climbing school in America by Outside magazine. Bob has worked extensively in the film business as a climbing stunt coordinator. He was Sylvester Stallone’s climbing instructor for Cliffhanger and doubled for William Shatner in Star Trek V, as Captain Kirk free-soloing on El Capitan.
Jason D. Martin is a professional mountain guide, writer, and a senior guide at the American Alpine Institute. He has guided in Red Rock Canyon, Joshua Tree National Park, the Cascades, the Sierra, the Alaska Range, in Canada's Coast Range and in the Andes of Ecuador, Bolivia and Peru. Jason is an AMGA Certified Rock Guide and an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor program provider. In addition to working as a guide, Jason is a playwright, film critic and outdoor adventure writer. He co-authored Washington Ice: A Climbing Guide and authored Fun Climbs Red Rocks: Topropes and Moderates.
Acknowledgments. .... vii
About the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA).... viii
AMGA Certification.... x
Concept Driven Techniques and the AMGA....xii
How to Use This Book.... xiii
Chapter 1: The Role of a Climbing Instructor.... 1
Chapter 2: Professionalism Pre-Program Preparations.... 3
Chapter 3: Programming Permitting.... 7
Chapter 4: Pedagogy: The Art of Teaching Learning Styles....17
Chapter 5: Baseline Equipment Harness....28
Chapter 6: Knots and Hitches Loop Knots....62
Chapter 7: Protection and Anchoring Rock Assessment....102
Chapter 8: Anchor Systems Fundamental Anchor Anatomy and Principles....145
Chapter 9: Advanced Anchor Rigging Systems and Institutional Anchors Using a Setup Rope: Components Far Apart.....164
Chapter 10: Risk Management at the Crag Rockfall....183
Chapter 11: Top- or Base-Site Management for a Single Pitch Top-Managed Sites....187
Chapter 12: Rappelling Teaching Rappelling....208
Chapter 13: Basic Assistance and Rescue Skills Assistance from the Base....221
Chapter 14: Fixed Lines.....231
Chapter 15: Leading Student Lead Belay Training....234
Appendix A: Leave No Trace Ethics....240
Appendix B: How to Determine a Fall Factor....242
Appendix C: Autoblocking Devices....244
Appendix D: Wilderness Medical Certifications....247
Appendix E: Recommended Reading....248
Appendix F: Climbing Instructor
Employment Resources....249
About the Authors....257
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